After the dramas of Marrakech we had searched for a riad in Essaouira that had onsite parking and was away from the medina. This turned out a lot easier due to Essaouiras smaller size and we arrived safely at the riad where we were pleasantly surprised by a charming little hotel offering excellent service. Our room had a nice rustic feel to it and after the 50th time wacking our heads on the small doorframes we learnt to duck. The terrace on the roof was also a nice area for us to relax and our initial experience in this new city was very positive.

After stowing our gear we walked the short distance from the riad down the beach to the medina. Relaxing at a cafe we were entertained by enthusiastic Morrocan buskers and just enjoyed the slower pace of the area. Having never actually walked through a medina or it's accompanying souk (market), we were amazed at the variety of wares on offer, from whole beef carcases, fresh spices and clothing. We were also frequently kindly offered hashish, opium or anything else that tickled our fancy. No wonder the city was so laid back... After a quick taste of what the medina had to offer we retreated back to the medina for an early night.

The next day we were met with our complimentary breakfast on the terrace which was simple and delicious. After an easy morning spent on the terrace we headed back into the medina to spend the day exploring. We were amazed at the number of shops selling all kinds of artistic items, from woodwork to leather, each one handmade locally. By this stage we had become quite familiar with the myriad tajine dishes on offer and were definitely fans of the aromatic Morrocan stews. We returned briefly to the riad to freshen up and research camel trekking before heading back to the medina in search of a highly recommended vegetarian restaurant. After searching without success, being misdirected by a local and finally finding the restaurant we decided it wasn't what we had been looking for. Thankfully along the way we had passed one of the many small restaurants on offer, this one being filled with customers so we headed back to it starving for food. We were rewarded with the best restaurant we had been to since entering Morroco. As we sat studying the menu, which was filled with amazing local choices, Morrocan music was played throughout and we could hear the Call to Prayer from the local mosque. We worked our way through the best 3 courses and were grateful for stumbling across this little jem.

Our final day in Essaouira was spent relaxing at the beach cafe, drinking beer and wine while watching the kite surfers strut their stuff. The following day we reluctantly headed back to Marrakech after luckily being offered a spot on a camel tour (that had been previously fully booked). Upon arrival at the caravan park we decided to head back into the Marrakech medina for take two... this time by taxi. It was an amazing spectacle but our initial impression didn't appear to be too far off when certain locals started giving us incorrect directions and then shadowing our movements. We quickly found our own way back to the main square and sat down for a well earned dinner watching a couple of locals getting into a fistfight. We headed back to the campsite for an early night, dreaming of the tour we were about to embark on.