Italian riviera

Our initial experience in Italy was that of winding roads and views of the blue Mediterranean. The drivers were crazy but I was too exhausted from our trek through the Gorge du Verdon that I didn't care... besides our car was bigger!! We had headed for Sanremo because it was the only Italian name we knew (close to the border) based on the brand of pasta sauce we had bought before. We quickly learned that 40km in Italy takes 2 hours (avoiding tolls) enduring 50km/h on crazy winding roads offset by the amazing scenery.

Arriving in Sanremo we accidently pulled into a van site where we decided to stay and were straight away amazed at the quality of the place. Unlike France they had seats on their toilets, toilet paper and heated blocks. In the morning as we prepared to leave the car failed to start due to overuse of the battery. We were rescued by the campsite staff who brought their truck around to give some juice to our battery (through our underperforming jumper leads) and while we waited for the charge to increase we became surrounded by fellow Italian campers. A grand conversation then began between all those who spoke Italian and luckily one Italian translated it as "we all have our own idea on how to fix this and will wave our arms and offer our advice until it is fixed". Everyone was extremely nice in their arm waving and soon we were on our way... even after swapping our undersized jumper leads with a fellow Italians equally undersized leads to see if it would help.

Learning earlier that it would take twice as long to get to our destination of La Spezia by avoiding tolls we thought we would pay the extra to get there faster by using the tollways, as well as figure out how much they would cost in Italy. 20km in the traffic came to a stand still as we began to experience our first motorway traffic jam followed immediatley after with the fuel light going on. We progressed a little further until we stopped again within a tunnel and after several of these instances we decided to take the next exit to refuel and try our hand again going the scenic route. Our next few hours were spent traversing the Italian coast passing through town after town all with a view of the Mediterranean.

We finally arrived at the outskirts of Genova (one of the many cities in Italy we could not enter due to the mass Low Emission Zone rules throught the country) and worked our way up through the hills to the campsite. Driving down a one way street high up in the hills we came to the closed gate of the site with the only thought running through our head being "How will we reverse the car back down out of this closed campsite...". To our relief the gates began to open and we entered a sanctuary in the hills over Genova. We spent the night calming our frazzled nerves with a few beers while chatting to Rencio, our host.

In the morning we headed off for the final leg to La Spezia where we planned on walking the Cinque Terre national park which would take us through 5 small Italian towns built into the hills with their doors at the mediterranean. The drive was another long one and the scenery became even more startling due to the snow that had fallen the night before, which seemed to us to be a contradiction, having snow right next to the Mediterranean and it seemed the weather was taunting us after our adventure a few days before.

Upon arriving in La Spezia, with the day almost gone and no tourist information centre to be found we parked the van to resupply only to find us we came back to leave that the car immobilizer didn't believe we were who we said we were and refused to start the car. This wasn't something new and  from experience we knew that it would start eventually so we stopped to have dinner and pass the time. An hour in there was a knock at the door and the local business was closing up, putting in place the high restricted barriers and wanted us to move. We tried to let them know that the car wouldn't start across the english/italian language barrier to no avail so went to show the man where the car started at first turn... We quickly left, tail between legs, and headed a little out of La Spezia to camp on the cliffs above the Mediterranean just outside the first town for the walk, Riomaggiore.

We woke to sunny skies and headed off to the town to get the day underway. The first hurdle for the day came when we were advised that the first leg of the walk was closed due to landslides, so we headed back to La Spezia to catch the train to the point we could walk on as well as get more information. As we came closer to the city the van started making a lot of noise and after pulling over we realised that the muffler had snapped off, so we headed to the closest mechanic. He advised us to take it to the Ford dealer and at this point the notorious immobilizer bug showed up again, so we walked to the nearest shopping centre for lunch while we waited for the car to become more agreeable.

After we left the first mechanic we arrived at the Ford dealership to find that it closed for several hours in the middle of the day, dragging out the frustration of not knowing if the car could be fixed for a reasonable amount. Finally we were able to book the car in, with the assistance of a couple of interpreters of varying skill, but a new muffler would take 11days to arrive. This gave us a fantastic opportunity to jump on the train, headed for Rome and beyond, while we waited. The journey was uneventful until we arrived in Rome at midnight to the disturbing spectacle of row upon row of homeless people as we walked to the hotel where we were staying for the night.

Gorge du Verdon

Leaving Avignon we had plotted a course to Gorge du Verdon via Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, a town just to the north of the lake the gorge empties into, with the hope of finding a spot to camp for the night. As we drove closer to our destination it was obvious that the journey on the following day would be stunning based on the mountainous terrain we started to go through. Our first obstacle on this trek came when we discovered that:

  • Moustiers-Sainte-Marie was a village built into the cliff face, which was very scenic especially with it's own waterfall running through parts of the village, but not a place we wanted to take our van,
  • Although there were signs showing the numerous campsites in the area, all were closed,
  • Free camping was forbidden everywhere we looked.

Not to be deterred and wanting to see the lake as well before we navigated the gorge we headed a little south, checking all the campsites we passed for whether they were open, to no avail. In the end we stumbled upon a site that we think allowed free camping but didn't care eitherway as we had tried our best and the sun was setting in an area where night driving involved winding roads with a cliff on one side. As such we parked up for the night in this area and enjoyed an amazing night with absolute silence and enough stars to make a movie.

When we woke in the morning we were surrounded by snow. This was delightfully unexpected as everywhere we had driven so far in France had been cold and green. We took our time in the morning to allow some of the light snow to dissipate before heading on our way. On our trip to the campsite we had driven past the lake and were amazed at the stunning turquoise colour of the water that was so consistent that it seemed as if paint had been dropped into it. Even with the overcast day this had not changed and we slowly made our way to the north road around the gorge at a snails pace while we took it all in.

After the snow I was mindful of the roads, which looked as if they had just been cleared, but more so due to the small winding mountain roads which continued to be very good regardless of their narrow width. This continued for a fair while, occasional snowy banks would appear on the roadside or as we past through villages. As we past through Castellane we noticed the first sign that recommended snow chains, which we did not have. From our limited experience in the Sierra Nevada we assumed that there would be advisories indicating when these should be put on plus the multitude of campervans around us without them set us at ease.

Shortly after the snow started to fall lightly again as we followed a campervan up the road (at a slow pace of about 50km) and everything seemed fine until our GPS told us to take a left while everyone else seemed to continue right. At this stage two things happened, our road levelled out and the snow started falling in earnest. We started to become concerned when we first saw someone pull over to put chains on and even more so as the road started to disappear in the white that now surrounded us. We considered turning around or stopping but feared that we may get stuck so continued on at a pace slow enough to allow us to stop quickly but that still kept us moving forward. Things continued to go down hill (unfortunately not literally) as the snow and sludege thickened with the visibility dropping when, after far too long, we started to descend. 

At this point it was still snowing, the roads were still worse at best and we were still too high up. As we slowly descended at the leisurely pace of 20km an hour, made up for by the 200km/h my heart was racing at, we came to a bend and the car decided it didn't want to turn resulting in us slowly drifting toward the edge where we quickly became bogged but thankfully not over the edge about 4metres away. Thankfully we were able to rock ourselves out of this and continue down, now at 2km an hour with half of France trailing behind us (the other half were on the ascent pulled over putting snow chains on). 

Finally we had descended enough that things become less stressful and with a startling abruptness we passed out of a tunnel and into lush green mountains split by the amazing Verdon river. From here to Nice our journey seemed downright boring and when we finally arrived had no stomch for yet another French town (especially one known for it's beaches that we couldn't swim in), so we headed for the border and crossed into Italy.

Provence

We arrived at Montpellier late in the afternoon and plotted a course for McDonalds to connect to the internet. Along the way our GPS dropped out and as we made our way through the city centre we started following another van to ensure we weren't going to head anywhere we couldn't fit. We quickly realised this was a mistake when the van turned down a one way street (authorised vehicles excepted),  headed straight for the mall and oncoming trams. As the van we had followed pulled into a shop to make it's delivery we were left to continue up the No Go Zone to a point we could turn around and exit swiftly while dodging the trams that all seemed to be arriving at once.

After putting some distance between us and our latest impromptu f#%k up we parked the car at the Odysseum, a mega sized shopping centre containing aquariums, rock climbing and shops etc. Here we spent a more sedate time doing the groceries and laundry before finding a place to camp near Pic St Loup, the mountain range we planned on hiking up the next day.

After a quiet night we headed to the base of the mountain, parked the car and began our trek. The path up was rocky and usually steep but eventually it evened out and we were provided with same amazing views. It was a hazy day and we hadn't found the path all the way to the summit so we didn't get the reported panoramic view containing the Alps, Mediterranean and Pyrenees but what we did get was spectacular nonetheless. We continued along the path leading down until finally we arrived at a little village. From here we plotted a course along the road instead of retracing our steps where we discovered the road back was close to 12km. Deciding to take the longer but hopefully easier path we set off through villages and vineyards, both adding to the journey in their own way. The road back, however was far from easy requiring us to traverse hill after hill which started to taint the scenery until just when we had almost had enough we made it back to where we had parked the car. As a reward for our efforts while walking past the final paddock we were greeted by the resident horses who all came to the fence to say hello.

From here we drove to Nimmes and after a hot shower we were asleep before our heads hit the pillows, exhausted. Knowing what Nimmes had to offer we were up early and into town at first light. The morning was spent following a tourist path through the city streets which took us past some interesting buildings, most of which weren't the ones that the walk was meant to show. After lunch in the square outside the roman arena, we headed in to discover what the old ruin had offered in it's prime, learning a lot while sitting in the sun on the benches of the arena. From here we retraced our steps through the city to the Maison Carree, a fully preserved temple, which was now being used to show 3D films about Nimmes history. After the film we headed through the Fountain Gardens to the Tour Masagne, thought to have acted as a watch tower, which offered views of the city and surrounds. We ended the day heading to the village near the Pont Du Gard to camp for the night.

Upon arriving at the Pont Du Gard site our first stop was through the museum which gave us a greater appreciation of the difficulty building the 50km aquaduct where every stone was mined by hand. It also gave us an insight into how the Roman culture would utilise the supplied water as well as how water became (yet another) status symbol where the more affluent would have pipes running to their homes with gardens and fountains, while others would have to collect theirs by hand from communal taps. The visit to the museum was followed by a short film which added to the information we had already received before we headed off to see the Pont Du Gard. The structure was remarkable, even more so was the fact that this was just a small part of a much larger aquaduct. The Gardon river and it's surrounds were also amazing, with crystal clear water that invited us for a swim, if only it was a little warmer.

The next stop was Visiatome which we were under the impression was a museum of sustainable energy based outside the town of Marcoul. Instead it turned out Marcoul was a nuclear powerplant and the museum was dedicated to showing how nuclear waste was disposed, as well as it's necessity. It was filled with many informative displays but felt like propaganda, maybe due to the regular video displays featuring an employee advocating nuclear energy and how much they cared for the environment...

From here we headed to Avignon where we spent the first 2 hours there sitting in the van waiting for roadside assistance due to it not starting outside the campsite we had just paid to stay at for the night. As is always the case, as soon as help arrived, the mechanic turned the key and everything worked. At least we discovered that there was an issue with the immobiliser and knew what needed to be looked at. As we completed the paperwork for the mechanic we discovered a remarkable coincidence being that he was from Essaouirra, Morroco and his brother ran the camel riding on the beach there.

Our next day in Avignon was spent catching up with chores before heading into the walled city for a leisurely lunch. During lunch we had intended on learning what we should see in this city besides the Fort and Pont. During our research, however we looked into the Gorge du Verdon which we were going to visit on the way to Nice. After many rave reviews plus pictures of stunning turquoise-green waterfrom the river Verdon we decided to high-tail it to Moustiers-Sainte-Marie to spend the night before touring the gorge the next day.

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